The story of our Carol a.k.a. 'spud'
Looks like the O2 sensor is the same as the one used on the capp (4 wire), so if you have a single wire sensors it's the exh temp sensor. (As Andy says it's a fuse rather than sensor)
You can get 1,2,3,4, and 5 wire 02 sensors. Temp sensors is after the cat, O2 before the cat (just after the turbo).
I'm quite sure it's a temperature sensor, like I said it only has 1 wire out, so wouldn't be too complicated. I just want something to fill the hole, we don't have any bolts big enough.
So we got her ready to turn over and were so disappointed to find out she wouldn't fire up!
There's a really handy drain plug on the fuel tank so we drained it all out:
We put 5lts of new fuel in and took a sample of fuel from the engine side:
We then pulled more fuel through to clear the lines.
We took the plugs out and turned her over, there's a spark. We then did a compression check and got 10 bar on each of the cylinders. We then took the fuel rail out and tested the injectors, got around 10 Ohms across the injectors. Put them back in and turned her over without the plugs and they at the very least had fuel going to them (we don't have the facilities to test the injectors properly). Throttle is opening and everything seems to be working! We tried changing the ignition leads over and every combination possible, and we tried advancing and retarding the ignition.
We have air, we have fuel, we have sparks.
Do any of you guys recognise these plugs which I think are diagnostic plugs:
If so how do you bridge them? Which one to bridge? and what do the codes mean?
(The battery is disconnected in that pic because it's on charge)
I don't know much about these but - with the Centos - if there is fuel and spark and it's still not starting it's normally an immobiliser issue, I presume you've investigated this already but just throwing it out there just in case.
I wouldn't rule that out, but I'd be very surprised if there is an immobiliser on there.
It sounds like you have everything there to make it start but it's not starting .... hmmm.
I assume you've checked around for vac leaks and things like that.
If you're sure everything to make it start is ok then I'd be tempted to try and bump start. I'd try towing behind another car, as it's less tiring.
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Morning I'll question bomb you now..
Does it even try to fire when cranking?
Any smoke from the exhaust?
Did you not remove the tank and clean?
Fuel filter changed?
Engine management light on when the ignition is on?
Do you have a healthy spark? Hold the plug away 5 to 10cm from metal, does it jump ok?
Fuel pump working all the time as you crank?
Resistance value of the crank sensor?
Valve timing ok?
All electrical grounds checked?
Valve tappets adjusted correctly?
If you give it a sniff of easy start when cranking does it try?
It's hard to advise over the net, you've got the main things but do you have enough for example fuel
Pressure and in the right order.
Could you remove the fuel rail with injectors attached and place in 3 glasses then crank over, you could then carefully examine the spray patterns. Just don't set anything on fire or blind your self... ???
With things like this thinking outside of the box is required..
WE GOT HER RUNNING!
We took the cam cover off and the dizzy cap, at TDC the rotor arm was roughly 180* out. We tried changing the plugs around to suit the rotor arm:
The housing can only go on one way along with pretty much everything else. So we took the whole distributor system off turned the rotor around 180* and put it back on!
She's still a little rough but she's running! Need to play with the advancing of the timing and reconnect the clutch properly.
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Just in the wrong order then
Least it's running now, always a huge relief when something fires up after a epic rebuild!